2002-05-10

Persistence pays off (we get our motorcycles!)

No, that's not my motorcycle in the photo. We were waiting for hours with nothing to do outside some government offices so I wandered around and found this motorcycle taxi to give me a ride. Though I was a passenger I was still the first on a motorcycle in Shanghai! The taxi driver got such a kick out of the attention that he refused to let me pay him.

While all this was going on Helge and our Chinese guides were arguing with the officials about releasing our bikes. I am very glad to not have been a part of that discussion as it involved shouting, threats of impounding our bikes and wrestling with an inflexible bureaucracy.

The Chinese are not used to having visitors bring motorcycles into the country. In fact, it is not legal to drive motorcycles of any kind on the highway. We had hoped to get an exemption as our motorcycles are highway capable but the officials would not oblige us and we are restricted to local roads.

We are also required to have a lead vehicle, chase vehicle, and to ride strictly in a convoy. No exceptions!

It is likely that our group will be the only one allowed to bring in motorcycles this year.

A display near a car factory. As best as I can tell, the Japanese and Americans have opened factories in China where they ship their old equipment and molds to continue to build cars that have gone out-of-date elsewhere. Want a new Volkswagen Golf? You can buy one in Shanghai. Perhaps this is a first step towards bringing the Chinese up-to-date with modern manufacturing methods.

A plant delivery service? Or a primitive way to stay in the shade?

This man will not go thirsty.

At last! We are given approval to open the cargo container and pick up our bikes! The customs authorities have verified the numbers on the seal and this man is cutting it to open the container.

Sim, our guide in China, appears to offer a blessing for our motorcycles. He is really waving us back to let the container air out for a few moments.

Helge's BMW R1150GS Adventure among many curious onlookers.

Helge wheeling out Rick's R100GS.

We attract much attention as most Chinese have never seen bikes as large as ours. The law in Chinese restricts motorcycles to a maximum engine displacement of 250ccs. Bikes are expected to be small, lightweight and not suitable for highway use. My KLR 650, the smallest bike on the trip, has two-and-a-half times that capacity and the big R1150GS is four-and-a-half times larger.

I have my temporary Chinese license plate. We are warned that we had better not lose it because replacing it will cost $500!

Rick (in the foreground) with Ian and Bryan. Rick and I are roommates for this trip.

David Wilde prepares his Kawasaki KLR 650. Rick is on the left.

Mike Mathews on his Honda Transalp. Our bikes will never be this clean again! Note the spare fuel container to supplement the Transalps limited fuel capacity.

Rick Wetzel on his BMW R100GS. With a fuel tank that large his next fuel stop might well be Munich!

Our first technical problem. Trouble with the wiring in Roy's bike. Not to worry, Helge gets it sorted out, and we will be on our way in a few minutes.

Our bikes have very little fuel in them, as required for shipping, so our first stop is the closest gas station. Roy Cox gets friendly service as he fills his R1150GS.

Our convoy, stopped for directions. Jim Harding is in the front on his BMW F650. Moments after I took this photo a uniformed man came running over shouting at me that no photos were allowed. It wasn't obvious but, apparently, the building on the right was some kind of military building and they are strict about not allowing photos.

Everyone stares as we ride by. Close-up of the little girl in the shop, fascinated by the foreigners on their big motorcycles.

The attention we draw has already caused an accident. A driver in a van in the lane next to ours was so intent on this strange sight that he failed to pay attention and came up too fast behind a stopped car. He slammed on his brakes in a panic and swerved out of the way, hit a curb, and his van flipped over on its side.

Our second problem. We are not allowed on the highway and this policeman is writing us a ticket and directing us to take the next exit.