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Musings brought on by whichever brain cells happen to be firing at the time.
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Saturday, May 31, 2003 - The Long Branch Saloon
![]() Miss Kitty's Long Branch saloon. I stayed in Kanab, Utah last night and didn't expect anything more interesting than a hot shower and a warm bed. Much to my surprise I learned that Kanab bears the nickname of "Little Hollywood" and quite a reputation as the premier location for western movies. More than a hundred western movies were filmed here. Autographed photos of stars line the walls of Kanab's restaurants and motels. Clint Eastwood, John Wayne, Steve McQueen, Montgomery Cliff... even former president Ronald Reagan walked these streets. The photo is from an decaying abandoned movie set just outside of town in Johnson Canyon. This is where they shot many episodes of Gunsmoke and How The West Was Won. I used to watch Gunsmoke every week when I was a little kid. How exciting to be standing in front of the Long Branch saloon where sheriff Matt Dillon stood down many a bad cowboy. Fantastic! These kinds of surprise discoveries are a big part of why I love to travel. There is another set further outside of town which is reputed to be in better condition. I'll save it for my next visit. There are some more photos here of the movie set in Johnson Canyon. Someone had big plans to restore it a while back but never got around to it. That's too bad as it looks beyond repair today. If you want to see it you better go soon before it's gone. ![]() I rode out to see the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The photo doesn't do it justice. It is spectacular beyond words. It's almost June but at 8,900 feet there's still snow on the side of the road and the rain is chilly. I cranked up my heated grips and turned on my latest luxury: a heated seat. Man, I'm getting soft in my middle age! ![]() These stones are just as impressive to me as the Grand Canyon! This is in Cliff Dwellers. There's not much there. A roadside store, small motel and restaurant. I asked the clerk at the store and he said there are no cliff dwellers in Cliff Dwellers. ![]() They peeled off the cliff and rolled down who knows how many years ago. Over the years the wind and rain eroded the earth except for the part shaded by the stones. Now they are balanced in ways that look impossible. My poor F650 must be trembling. Although I know these stones have been here for thousands of years I was a little concerned the vibration of my bike just might be enough to unbalance one and squash me. ![]() When it rains in the desert it comes down hard. Every drop is like hitting a pebble. You can hear it drumming on your helmet and feel it hammering through your gear. At least it gets the bugs off. You can see the clouds' dark streaks approaching from tens of miles away and sometimes you can time your ride to avoid it. Best of all, when it's all over you're treated to a magnificent rainbow light show.
Friday, May 30, 2003 - Leaving Las Vegas
![]() Elvis has left the building! I said goodbye to Las Vegas today. A professional photographer took an interest in me at the "Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas" sign. He was in town to cover an Elvis impersonation convention. Unfornately, I had already packed away my sideburns. What a town this is! Even the billboards play roulette. The even billboards advertise the pleasures of the casinos. "Everyone's a winner!" "Bet your paycheck and win!" The odd billboards advertise therapy of various sorts. "Untreated depression is the number one cause of suicide." "Is your house or car a burden to you? We pay cash!" Vegas was enduring record temperatures for the month of May. A blistering 109 degrees! It must be at least twenty degrees hotter over the asphalt. The Nevada state motto is "...but it's a dry heat!" Dry heat my butt. The asphalt is turning to liquid. Swimming pools are boiling over. Trees are whistling to dogs. Birds are using pot-holders to pull worms from the ground. And there's a little red man with horns and a pitchfork coming this way. Time to go! ![]() Near Zion national park. Spectacular countryside. ![]()
Thursday, May 29, 2003 -
Idea of the day: Use steganography to add tags to files which don't normally support tags. Tags are generally small relative to file sizes so embedding them should be practical. The only risk is if the file is editted in some way that destroys the tags (but this risk is present even in cases where tags are explicitly supported.)
Tuesday, May 27, 2003 - A visit to the Cage of Death!
Zuzana took me to see my first Las Vegas show, Splash, at the Riviera. Singing, dancing, comedy, juggling and stunts-- It was a lot fun. And, yes, the dancers really do wear those outrageous, reach-for-the-sky feathered hats. But I had come for one reason: The highlight of the show was the Globe of Death motorcycle act where four riders circle the interior of a 14-foot steel globe. I had heard of such stunts before but seeing it live left me awestruck. Zuzana knows the man who maintains their motorcycles so we got a special treat by going backstage and meeting Bela Tabak, the head stunt rider, and getting a close look at his bikes. Bela holds the world record with five bikes simultaneously circling the Globe of Death. Doing it with four, twice a night, seven nights a week must be routine for him. ![]() Zuzana on one of the stunt bikes-- a modified 100cc two-stroker. Would you trust your life to this? ![]() See, this doesn't look so hard! Goofing around in the cage. I asked Bela if I could try my hand in the Globe of Death. It didn't work out this time but I have my fingers crossed that I'll get my chance in a future visit.
Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - Goofing around in Las Vegas
![]() Paris? No, mon ami, but it's the next best thing. The Las Vegas strip boasts its very own one-third scale model of the Eiffel Tower! John Shelton and I walked around to see the sites. Neither of us feel any temptation to gamble but we had a good time anyway. ![]() Always, ALWAYS, wear a helmet when riding a motorcycle! Just horsing around in the Harley-Davidson Cafe. They charge you to pose for a Harley photo on the other bikes but this one costs only a quarter. I don't think it's a real Harley though. There wasn't an oil stain underneath.
Saturday, May 17, 2003 - The Jimmy Lewis dirt bike class
![]() My Globerider buddy, John Shelton, good friends Peter Kukol and Zuzana Kukol and I have come to the desert near Primm, Nevada to take the Jimmy Lewis adventure touring dirt bike class. That's Jimmy in the photo demonstrating the proper method to, er, "lighten the front end." Seriously, it's a legitimate skill that can get you over tall obstacles and out of tight spots. Jimmy is more than qualified to teach this class. He is a Paris/Dakar competitor and one of the best motorcyclists in the world. Nope, no anorexic trials bike will do for his classroom demonstrations. He teaches on a stock R1150GS to make it clear that everything he shows us can be done on even the biggest bike. The porky GS looks much, much smaller in his expert hands. It's the rider-- not the bike. ![]() Here is Jimmy showing us how to position ourselves to ride down steep hills. Stand on the pegs, shift your weight to the back, brake the rear wheel just below the point of locking up, go light (if at all) on the front brake. This hill didn't look very steep and when Jimmy asked for the first volunteer I was quick (as always) to raise my hand. I didn't know Jimmy planned to lift up the backs of our bikes. It gets quite a bit steeper! My round-the-world trip last year was my first real experience riding through dirt, gravel and mud. Take it from me- you don't want to learn dirt riding in the midst of a long trip! My street reflexes kept telling me that I didn't have full control of the bike and as a result I was uncomfortable, anxious and tensed up much of the time. Ride like that for a few days or weeks and you'll be worn out and beat up too. It was obvious that dirt skills and street skills were two different things. I resolved to learn enough dirt skills so I could enjoy the kind of roads we were on rather than fear them. Jimmy is a patient teacher. We spent the first day on a dry lake bed practicing drills. The point of each drill is to learn to control the bike so it will do the work for you. Jimmy reinforced that message time and again. "Wrestling the bike will just wear you out. It's bigger and stronger than you. Instead, learn how to balance it and control it to let it do the work." Sounds like a martial arts technique, doesn't it? The second day we took an 80-mile trek through the desert testing different road conditions to apply what we've learned. I can tell that I made a major mental leap because now I'm driving slow through the easier parts and fast through the harder parts. It's just the opposite of what my survival instincts told me but I'm gaining a sense of how acceleration provides stability through uneven terrain. Hitting the brakes shifts weight to the front wheel which tends to make it dig into sand or gravel-- just the opposite of what you want. Accelerating shifts weight back, lightens the front wheel, and provides more stability. It took some practice to learn to overcome my instincts and trust giving it gas but it worked. I was able to ride through places where, before, I would have slowed to a crawl, stuck out my feet, and wrestled the handlebars. It's a big improvement! Now it's up to me to take this back home and practice it. I highly recommend the Jimmy Lewis course. John, Peter, Zuzana and I are all thinking about coming back for another one next year. In the meantime I'm going to work on perfecting my technique for "lightening the front end." ;-)
Tuesday, May 13, 2003 - A giant teapot!
![]() I am riding my BMW F650 GS (the replacement for my venerable KLR 650) to Las Vegas to take the Jimmy Lewis adventure-touring dirt bike class. What do I see off the highway? It's a giant teapot! This is the famous teapot gas station on I-82. It was built in 1922 to commemorate the Teapot Dome scandal and is still serving customers today.
Sunday, May 11, 2003 - Touring a Soviet submarine
![]() We toured the Russian "Cobra" submarine B-39 which is permanently docked in Seattle harbor. This submarine was launched in 1974 and on active duty as recently as 1994 yet appears to be even less sophisticated than the American World War II submarine, USS Bowfin, I saw in Hawaii. The primitive B-39 has no way of producing its own fresh water. They had to carry it with them or be resupplied at sea. Even more baffling is the use of wood for interior walls. Wouldn't this be a highly dangerous fire hazard on a submarine? Space is a premium on any submarine but the crew's quarters are even more cramped on the B-39 than the Bowfin. There was one notable exception: The political officer had a relatively comfortable, private cabin. It seems we overestimated the Soviet navy. Deb, Adam, Jill and I had a great time touring this amazing relic of the cold war. There's my lovely Deb in front of the conning tower. Click here for more information about the B-39. |